Hang (by your fingernails) Ten
I know that you think I’m super cool. Seeing me trying to ride waves with my Paddy and you would sniff and roll your eyes, pathetic! As my cousin Nancy says (about herself), “I’m a chicken.” I say (about myself), “Me too.”
I took up snowboarding at 30. It was a painful sport to learn (my Paddler in Crime will concur). Never before and never since have I had bruises like the ones I got after my first lesson. Riding is way more treacherous when you’re a newbie. You would think those easy green trails are a cake walk and you would be so very wrong. Falling in the steeps, you slide and sometimes tumble, falling in the flats is a body slam (Remember when the Hulk teaches Loki a lesson at the end of Avengers I?).
I HAVE NO DESIRE TO FEEL THIS PAIN AGAIN.
Twice now at Narragansett Town Beach, I have tried paddling out and riding in; small surf that looks easy peasy. Falling in 12 inches of water with a board that’s almost 11 feet sucks and my board didn’t even hit me. Remember when you were a kid getting smashed into the sand when you didn’t time the wave properly? Yup, it’s just like that except you’re not a cute kid, you’re an overgrown kid with your boob popping out of your suit and sand in all your crevasses. My second time was better but I still refused to stand up, opting to ride in on my knees.
I guess that I’ll probably try again. I have seen a few instructional videos floating around that teach about footwork on the board and how to use your paddle. I’ve never been one to read instructions but maybe I’ll get something out of watching them.
I apologize for the lack of pictures. It’s hard to do when surfing and I haven’t graduated to a GoPro yet. Next post I’m going to share my adventures on the Cape Cod National Seashore (no great whites or orcas were involved!).